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What Are The Benefits Of Bone Broth For Dogs?



what are the benefits of bone broth for dogs?

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Speak to some pup parents and they will tell you that bone broth is a miracle superfood that can transform your dog’s health. But what are the real benefits of bone broth for dogs?

We are going to take a look at what exactly bone broth is and what is in it that might be beneficial for your dog’s health.

We will also examine some of the commonly accepted benefits of dog broth, from fixing stomach upsets to tempting fussy dogs back to their bowls.

While it is great to make dog broth yourself, not everyone has the time, so we will also share with you our list of the best commercial bone broths for dogs on the market.

Finally, we will also take a look at how much bone broth your dog should be eating and the best way to incorporate it into their diet.

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What Is Bone Broth?

Bone broth is basically a broth that is made from simmering animal bones for long periods of time, usually between 10 and 24 hours. It is quite common to add veggies, fruit, and spices to the mix to enhance the taste.

Bone broth has been an important part of the human diet for millennia, as thrifty folk boiled bones in order to make the most of the nutrients that they had at their disposal.

As well as being tasty and warming, bone broth contains many of the nutrients that are found in the collagen and cartilage of the bones.

These include chondroitin sulfate, glucosamine, glycine, proline, and arginine. Bone broth is also rich in vitamins C, D, K, B-12, and B–6, iron, thiamine, potassium, calcium, silicon, sulfur, magnesium, potassium, niacin, riboflavin, zinc, copper, and more.

That is quite the nutrient wishlist!

Bone broth has likely been given to dogs for as long as they have been domesticated, and they love the smell and taste. These days, many bone broths are made specifically for dogs, to appeal to their taste buds and leaving out ingredients (such as onion and garlic) that are best avoided by pups.

Benefits Of Bone Broth For Dogs

Aside from being tasty, what are the benefits of adding bone broth to your dog’s diet?

1. Supports Healthy Joints

If you are buying supplements to support your dog with joint problems, which are very common in older age, especially among Labradors, then you are probably giving them glucosamine, which is naturally occurring in bone broth.

This natural form of glucosamine is better than anything you will find in a supplement, because it is resistant to digestion. This is actually a good thing, because it means that it is absorbed in its intact form. 

For this reason, the glucosamine in bone broth acts like a hormone, stimulating the cells to lay down protective collagen around the joints, tendons, and ligament.

2. Detoxes The Liver

As hard as we try, it is impossible to stop your dog from exploring almost everything with their mouth. It is almost inevitable that they are going to ingest something toxic pretty regularly, when you consider all the toxins in cleaning products and so forth.

The liver is responsible for filtering out these toxins so that they don’t hurt your dog. But if the liver is constantly bombarded with them, it can be hard for it to keep up.

The glycine that occurs naturally in bone broth is detoxifying for the liver. It can help remove any toxins that may have built up in your dog’s liver and give them a fresh slate to keep protecting your dog from unwanted toxins.

3. Promotes A Healthy Gut

Bone broth can have big beneficial effects if your pup has a sensitive stomach.

The lining of the intestines actually contains millions of tiny holes that allow digested nutrients to pass through and enter the body.

But stomach problems can cause these holes to expand, and they can let things through that shouldn’t pass from the gut to the body. Naturally, your dog’s immune system will notice the problem and attack the leaked toxins, leaving your dog feeling decidedly unwell.

Bone broth contains gelatin, which naturally blocks up larger holes in the intestines, preventing this kind of “gut leakage.”

4. Promotes The Immune System

Many of the vitamins and minerals found in bone broth are essential for maintaining your dog’s immune system, especially vitamin C.

5. Encourages Heart Health

Bone broth is rich in arginine, which is a neurotransmitter that helps with circulation. A healthy dose of arginine in the diet can smooth the flow of blood through the vessels and arteries and help prevent clogged arteries.

Bone broth is also a good way to raise your dog’s platelet levels if they are low. It contains both glycine and proline, which help the body to produce new platelets.

6. Medicates Sick Dogs

If your dog is feeling too unwell to eat, you will be worried whether they are getting all the nutrients they need. 

But, while they might not be able to manage solid foods, bone broth can act as an alternative. It is also rich in many of the minerals that your dog will have lost if they have suffered a period of vomiting or diarrhea.

The gelatin in bone broth can reduce their need for protein by about 50 percent, which means they won’t waste away while they aren’t eating directly.

7. Tempts Picky Dogs

It is not uncommon for dogs to become picky about their food for no apparent reason and suddenly turn their noses up at a dry food that they have been eating for months, while you still have a very large bag.

Topping your dog’s food with a bit of bone broth can make it seem much more appealing and tasty, and can tempt them back to their bowl when they have lost their appetite for some reason.

8. Promotes Skin And Coat Health

A bit of bone broth on a regular basis can also leave your dog’s skin and coat looking their shiny best, as the gelatin and collagen in the broth are both great for skin and hair health (just like they are for humans). 

How To Make Bone Broth

Bone broth is incredibly simple to make, but you do need to bear in mind that it will need to be on the heat for up to 24 hours.

All you really need is one to two pounds of high-quality meat bones, some pure filtered water, and either apple cider vinegar or lemon juice. These later ingredients are essential to ensure that the broth takes on a gelatin-like consistency.

Free-range and organic-fed animal bones are best, as any toxins on grass and in soil can filter into the animal’s bones. If you decide to make fish broth, always look for the bones of wild-caught fish in order to avoid excess mercury.

All you really need to do at this point is put the bones in the water and heat them to a boil, then reduce and simmer for a minimum of 10 hours, though 16-24 hours is better.

If you can’t be at home for the whole time to keep an eye on the pot, you can do it in the slow cooker, but you might need to leave it on the low heat setting for as long as 72 hours.

When the cooking period is done, remove the bones. Don’t be tempted to give these to your dog, as they have lost a lot of the nutrients anyway.

At this point, you can also add other ingredients to the recipe for flavor and some extra nutrients. Some of the best ingredients to add include carrots, sweet potatoes, apples, and berries. But you can really add anything as long as it is not toxic for your dog (so no onion or garlic).

Add these ingredients while the broth is still hot, and leave it to cool with the veggies included. In the end, you should have soft vegetable pieces that you can feed to your dog as is, or blend it all up if you prefer.

When the broth is cool, put it in the fridge for a few hours. During this time, a hard layer of fat will form on top. Scoop this off and throw it out.

Underneath you should have a jelly-like substance ready to feed to your dog. If it is more liquid than jelly, don’t worry, it is still healthy and tasty for your dog. Just add a bit more apple cider vinegar next time.

You can store the broth in the fridge for four to five days. If you want to store it for longer, pour it into ice-cube trays, which you can extract and thaw as individual servings as needed.

Best Commercial Bone Broths

While making your own bone broth is the best way to ensure that your dog gets something healthy and fresh with no additives, boiling bones for up to 24 hours isn’t for everyone.

But there are lots of commercial dog broths on the market that you can add to your dog’s bowl. Here are our top picks, all available on Chewy.

Only Natural Pet Bone Broth

The Only Natural Pet company makes a range of bone broths that are considered “human grade” but are designed to add to your dog’s bowl.

They boil down chicken, beef, or pork bones with vegetables, fruits, and leafy greens for added nutrients and flavor.

Their most popular chicken recipe is made from free-range chicken bones, carrots, cranberries, apples, parsley, chia seeds, and turmeric. Nothing nasty or artificial is added to mess with your dog’s stomach.

Merrick Bone Broth

Merrick makes beef, chicken, and turkey bone broths that are sure to satisfy your pup’s taste buds.

This is another product that is “human grade,” so you could put it on your own plate, but it is designed to appeal to your pup.

The beef recipe includes added butternut squash, blueberries, parsley, and cinnamon for flavor and to add some of the other vitamins and minerals that your dog needs.

Feed it to your dog as a topper with their favorite dry food.

Solid Gold Bone Broth

The brand Solid Gold also makes some healthy, human-grade broths that come in a handy squeeze tube for adding to your dog’s food.

This broth is available in beef, turkey, or chicken flavors, with added turmeric to make it extra tempting for even the pickiest of dogs. 

Carrot, sweet potato, apple, and sesame seed oil have also been added to the recipe for some of the other essential nutrients your dog needs to thrive.

The Honest Kitchen Bone Broth

The Honest kitchen offers a wide range of broths including beef, chicken, turkey, and salmon, which is great if you are looking for something a little different.

These human-grade recipes are made with carrots, butternut squash, tapioca, thyme, and sage for both added flavor and nutrients.

This recipe has more crude protein in it than most of the others on the list, which makes it a great choice for sick dogs that aren’t eating directly.

How To Feed Your Dog Bone Broth

There are many different ways you can feed your dog bone broth. You can pop it into their bowl as is, mix it into their wet food, or dribble it over their dry food. Some people even give their dogs frozen broth cubes as cooling treats in the summer.

So the real question is how much broth they should be eating, as too much of anything can upset your dog’s equilibrium.

As a general rule, they can have one ounce of bone broth per day per 20 pounds of body weight.

So a small pinscher that weighs about 10 pounds should receive half an ounce a day, or one ounce every two days. Meanwhile, an 80-pound Labrador can have up to four ounces of bone broth per day.

But Remember…

Even if they are eating bone broth, your dog still needs bones!

While bone broth contains many of the nutrients that your dog gets from gnawing away at a bone, it is not a replacement for the bone itself. Bones provide calcium and phosphorus, which are not present in large amounts in the broth. Bones are also a natural way for your dog to clean their teeth and satisfy their chewing instinct.


Is Bone Broth Good For Dogs?

Bone broth is very good for dogs, containing many nutrients that support joint health, good digestion, strong immunity, and a healthy heart. It is an excellent natural way to supplement your dog’s core diet.

How Much Bone Broth Should I Give My Dog?

Dog’s can have one ounce of bone broth per day per 20 pounds of body weight. A small 10-pound dog should receive half an ounce of broth per day, while a large 80-pound dog can have up to four ounces per day.

Can I Give My Dog Store-Bought Bone Broth?

You can give your dog store-bought bone broth, which is usually sold frozen. Just make sure to use it within five days of defrosting. While you can give your dog bone broth made for humans, it is better to choose broth made especially for dogs.

This is because broths for humans sometimes contains ingredients that are toxic to dogs, such as onion and garlic. If you do choose to give your dog broth made for humans, check the ingredients list carefully for these toxic substances.

What Kind Of Bone Broth Is Best For Dogs?

All bone broths contain the essential collagen and nutrients that are great for your dog, including fish broth, so feel free to mix it up. Beef and chicken broths are the most common and the most popular. When buying or making fish broth, be sure to use wild-caught fish bones to avoid excess mercury.

Is There A Difference Between Chicken Stock And Chicken Broth?

Chicken stock is different from chicken broth, and it is not a good idea to feed stock to your dog. It usually contains flavorings such as onion and garlic, which are toxic to dogs. Stock also tends to be high in sodium, and dogs cannot tolerate as much sodium in their diets as humans can.

The Verdict

It is a great idea to include bone broth in your dog’s diet. Not only is it full of nutrients that support joint health, good digestion, strong immunity, and heart health, but it is also a delicious treat they will love, and adding a bit to dry kibble can make that standard meal infinitely more appetizing.

Make your own or buy it from a dog food supplier—either way, fed to your dog correctly, it can be a healthy addition to their meal plan.

But don’t forget, they will still need delicious bones to chew.

Do you have any experience making bone broth for dogs? Share your thoughts with the community in the comments section below.

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8 Benefits of Bone Broth For Dogs + How To Make Bone Broth - Yellow Lab chewing on a bone.

Top Picks For Our Dogs

    We Like: Snuggle Puppy w/ Heart Beat & Heat Pack – Perfect for new puppies. We get all of our Service Dog pups a Snuggle Puppy.
    We Like: KONG Extreme – Great toy for heavy chewers like our Labrador Retrievers.
    We Like: Wellness Soft Puppy Bites – One of our favorite treats for training our service dog puppies.
    We Like: The Farmer’s Dog – A couple months ago we started feeding Raven fresh dog food and she loves it! Get 50% off your first order of The Farmer’s Dog.

For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the blog.

What Are The Benefits Of Bone Broth For Dogs? was last modified: March 22nd, 2021 by LTHQ

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Dog Training and Behavior

My Dog’s Reactive! What Should I Do?



my dog’s reactive! what should i do?

This post may contain affiliate links. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post.

So your dog goes ballistic when he sees a dog walking on leash a block away. He barks, whines, and lunges as if he was Cujo.

Your Max is usually such a sweet dog at home.

You’re embarrassed and don’t know what to do. Don’t feel bad. Some great dogs are also reactive.

One of my rescues, a Lhasa apso named Mikey, was one of the most reactive dogs I’ve ever seen.

He was the poster dog for reactivity.

He would bark and lunge in a very menacing way when he saw another dog. 

Mikey was a stray found on the streets. He had bite wounds and apparently a very rough life.

He was the cutest, spunkiest, black-and-white ball of fur. 

As a dog trainer and behavior specialist, I wanted to help him live a happy life. 

But I realized that it would take a lot of time and patience to see any progress.

And so our adventure began.

In this article, for simplicity I am using reactivity to another dog as an example. But the same techniques can be used for other things that your dog is reactive to, such as people. 

I am dealing with leash reactivity in this article. 

Dogs may be reactive at home too. Some dogs bark out the window when they see someone.

We call it the “mailman syndrome” because the person goes about his/her business. But your dog thinks that his barking sent the person away.

Again, as in every situation, manage it. Block your dog’s view. If your dog’s reactive to noises, play soft music or a television to block the sound. Or close the window.

And dogs who are reactive in their yards shouldn’t be left alone to practice their reactivity. Do the exercises below, then, when he’s ready, practice them in your yard.

So, first identify what your dog’s triggers are. Then, you can work with him.

Contents & Quick Navigation

What Is Reactivity?

Reactive dogs overreact to certain stimuli or situations. They respond to stimuli in a higher-than-normal level of intensity.

Some may react adversely to men or women or dogs. Or they may react to very specific things such as men with beards or women with hats. Others react to cars driving by or a bike passing by.

Each dog’s an individual.

Reactive dogs may demonstrate the following characteristics: 

  • Hypervigilence (a high state of alertness)
  • Restlessness (pacing)
  • Vocalization (barking, howling, whining)
  • Systemic effects (urinating, defecating, vomiting)
  • Displacement or stereotypic behavior (spinning, tail or shadow chasing)

I’ve successfully worked with many reactive dogs over the years. I’ve even conducted classes for reactive dogs for a local shelter. 

Reactive dogs are anxious, stressed dogs in the situations in which they’re reactive.

Signs of an Anxious, Stressed Dog

A dog that’s reactive is usually very anxious and stressed. He may show the following signs: 

Yawning when not tired: shedding dandruff; lip licking; tail tucked under body; leaving paw prints when it’s not hot; drooling; and sudden scratching.

A stressed dog that’s highly aroused by a stimuli or situation may show the following body language: 

Whale eye (whites of eyes showing); intense stare; tense/stiff body leaning forward; tail held high with a slow wag; raised hackles (hair on back of neck/shoulders); straining on leash/lunging; and ignoring redirection

What Causes Reactivity?

Generally, reactivity is fear-based. The dog is put in an environment where he’s scared.

Many things may cause a dog to be reactive. His genetic make-up may play a part. He may not have been properly socialized.

Or he may not have been sufficiently trained to have impulse control. He may even have had a frightening experience.

Any of these–or any combination–may cause reactivity.

With my rescue Mikey, it was obvious he had been attacked by or in a fight with dogs by the various wounds on his body. 

All he had to do was see a dog and he barked and strained at his leash.

The first few months with him weren’t easy. But he was worth it.

What Dogs Are Likely To Be Reactive?

Any dog can be reactive. But some breeds and mixes are more likely to be.

This is usually because of the job that they were bred to do.

Herding dogs are often reactive to moving objects. They may bark and lunge when a person on a bike passes by.

Or go ballistic when a car or motorcycle or jogger zooms past them. 

Shelties, border collies, German shepherds, and Australian shepherds are some popular examples. Their herding instinct makes them want to chase moving objects.

Working breeds such as boxers, doberman pinschers, and rottweilers also tend to be reactive with new things. They were bred to be watchdogs and family guardians.

Terriers can also tend to be more reactive than some other breeds. 

Scotties, for example, were bred to hunt and they make excellent watchdogs and, in the breed standard, they are known to be cantankerous towards other dogs. 

Westies also tend to chase after anything that moves.

So sometimes it’s truly in the genes. But that doesn’t mean the reactivity can’t be managed. 

I’ve had herding breeds for over 22 years.

Some have been obedience dogs, therapy dogs, and participated in other activities. 

Of course if I didn’t manage their innate predisposition to bark and chase things, there’s no way they could have participated in these activities.

And it would have been much more difficult for them (and for me) in everyday life.

Safety First

It’s important that everyone remain safe when working with a reactive dog. People and dogs should be at a distance that your dog cannot reach. 

Being too close passes the threshold of what your dog can handle.

Make sure that your dog can’t get out of his training equipment. I recommend a well-fitted harness that he can’t escape from.

If you feel that your dog can get out of the harness, try a different one. 

You can also use a double-leash system with one leash attached to the harness and another to a well-fitted Martingale collar from which dogs shouldn’t be able to get loose.

A leash with a tight collar conveys something’s wrong to a dog. This can set him off to be reactive.

When training a reactive dog, use a six-foot leash, keeping the dog close to you with slack so that the leash forms a “J.” 

Don’t use a flexi-leash or long-line. Your dog should never be able to rush another dog.

What Can You Do To Help Manage a Reactive Dog?

There are many things you can do to help your reactive dog make progress. 

First, his environment must be successfully managed.

For example, if you know he’s reactive to other dogs, you don’t want to take him to PetSmart on a Saturday afternoon where there will be a lot of canines.

Doing so will inevitably set back your behavior program and training. It will be too much stimulation for him.

1. Remain calm. 

I know that this is easier said than done. 

When I took Mikey out to walk him, I was always somewhat on edge about how he’d act when he saw a dog. 

But, as much as possible, I’d try to remain upbeat and calm. 

Dogs read our body language and scent; they can even sense our fear or     stress.

2. Train your dog. 

Training can not only get verbal control of your dog, it can also give him confidence.

It teaches him what’s expected and can give him something to focus on rather than being reactive to the environment.

You can teach him to look at you on command to redirect him away from what he’ll be reactive to.

Mikey developed a default behavior to look at me, which I rewarded.

Your pup can learn to sit on command to help get some impulse control.

3. Keep your dog under threshold. 

This just means not overstimulating him with things that he can’t handle.

Generally, this is done by keeping a safe distance from what he’s reactive to.

So if he’s reactive to moving cars or dogs, you want to stay at a distance at which he’s not reactive. 

This varies by dog. Some dogs can be fine at 20 feet away, but not at 19. 

When I first adopted Mikey, he couldn’t see a dog at even 60 feet away. He would bark and lunge at the dog even when the other dog was nonreactive.

I learned to work with him at his pace and what he could handle and wasn’t triggered.

4. Do science-based behavioral work. 

In classical conditioning, the appearance of another dog means food appears. So, when he sees a dog, give your pup high-value treats. 

This is what you’ll do in the beginning. 

PRO-TRAINER TIP: Use extremely high-value treats. For this work, you want to use something that your dog loves–not just his kibble. It should be a treat that he gets only for this. Some suggestions are: cheese, hot dogs, chicken, or Happy Howie’s meat roll. Cut up the treat in small, pea-sized pieces. Make sure that what you use is something that your dog’s stomach tolerates.

In operant conditioning, the dog learns that the appearance of another dog  means great treats will be given.

He learns to feel relaxed rather than tense what the other canine appears. He’ll learn to look to his owner for reinforcement rather than lunging at the other dog.

The dog performs the behavior of looking at the owner or away from the other dog without having any cue given by the owner.

The dog makes the choice to not react to the other dog and is reinforced for that behavior.

5. Do set-ups to work with the reactivity.

In the above method in #4, you can use a handler with a test dog. The handler with the other dog shouldn’t look at your dog and their dog must be nonreactive.

And, like all your training, the handler/test dog duo must be at a distance at which your dog isn’t reactive or stressed.

You can have them go in-sight, then out-of-sight.  When the duo is in sight and your dog is calm, you give him a series of treats until the duo goes out-of-sight.

Do this about three times during your session. You don’t want to over-do it and stress your dog.

Alternatively, you can have the duo in place and you and your dog go in-sight, out-of-sight. 

Of course, you give a stream of treats when the other dog is in sight and give no treats when the other dog’s not in view.

How long should your dog be able to view the other dog? It depends on your dog. You want to end the session before your dog shows any stress signals. 

Generally, it should be no longer than a minute or so.

Once your dog understands he gets treats when a dog appears and he’s not reactive, you can add the cue, saying in a happy tone “where’s the dog?” when the dog appears.

What if you don’t have someone with a nonreactive dog to practice? I’ve used pet shop parking lots.

I’ve stayed at a distance where my dog isn’t triggered as dogs exited the store or their cars.

Of course, do this for only a short time with a few dogs coming and going.

6. Make a u-turn. 

Life happens. So I teach clients to train their dog to make a u-turn and walk 180-degrees away from a trigger. 

A person walking a dog suddenly appears around the corner. That’s when you make the about turn.

Train it without distractions before you need to use it. Walk straight, then have a treat lure in the hand next to your dog as you make the u-turn. 

Also give the cue “turn” simultaneously. Practice a few times per session.

After practicing this with your dog without any distractions, then you can use it in real-life situations.

7. Redirect your dog to something else. 

Train the following exercises without distractions so that you can use them when there are distractions.

Teach your dog to redirect to a game. Have a favorite toy and throw it right in front of him (not too far so that it’s well within the range of his leash).

Tell him “get it” and play with him with it.  After he understands the game, you can use it on his walks.

Another useful game is to have about five high-value treats in your hand and throw them down, telling your dog to “find it.” 

This engages his natural scent ability. 

Most dogs love this. Play this game without distractions. 

Once he understands it, he’ll look down to the ground upon your “find it” cue, looking for his treats when a dog suddenly appears in the distance.

These redirection exercises help your dog focus on something else. 

They also make him more relaxed, which helps because reactivity is usually caused by stress.

8. Teach a “settle” command. 

This is a great impulse control exercise. It teaches a dog to calm down on cue.

Granted, most reactive dogs won’t be able to do this with distractions in the beginning. But, after doing some of the exercises above, they often are.

Always start training in a calm atmosphere without distractions. Add distractions only as fast as your dog can handle them. 

There’s no cookie-cutter approach.

They need to learn that they are safe when they’re with you. 

Check out how we teach our dogs the settle command.

9. Teach a “place” command. 

Teach your dog to go to a place like a mat or bed, Then teach him to settle on the mat as described in #8 above. 

Although this is a command that you’ll probably only use inside or not far outside your house, it’s very important for impulse control.

Training exercises in which your dog learns impulse control will help him in other situations.

Check out how we teach our dogs the “place” command.

10. Exercise your dog. 

A dog who receives a sufficient amount of physical and mental exercise is less likely to be reactive.

It’s difficult when you have a leash reactive dog.

Try playing fetch or other games at home before your walk. Have him play with puzzle toys.

The more stress relief he has prior to the walk should help him.

Is It Aggression or Reactivity?

Both may stem from fear, anxiety, or stress. A reactive dog may become aggressive but not all reactive dogs are aggressive.

A reactive dog may become aggressive if pushed too far. 

As indicated above, there are certain stress signals that a reactive dog will send. 

An aggressive dog will escalate those behaviors. In the spectrum of fight or flight, the aggressive dog will fight.

He may: have a stiffened body; lip licking; muzzle punches (pokes with a closed muzzle); snap; or bite.

A good example of a reactive dog who wasn’t aggressive is my Lhasa Mikey. He had all of the posturing. 

But one time a beagle got off his leash and ran at us. Before I could pick him up, Mikey hid behind my legs.

Luckily, the beagle was very friendly and nothing happened. But Mikey then–and at other times–never followed through with his warnings.

Rule Out Medical Causes

Sometimes there are medical reasons for the dog’s stress and anxiety. A full physical should be conducted and any tests run, like a full thyroid panel, that your vet recommends. 

If there’s a medical reason for your dog’s reactivity, you won’t be totally successful in your behavior modification and training program unless that’s treated.

Get Help If You Need It

If you feel overwhelmed or if you haven’t seen progress, I recommend getting professional assistance. The same is true if you’ve seen any aggression.

A veterinary behaviorist or positive reinforcement trainer who has a successful record with reactivity and aggression issues can help.

Don’t Try This at Home: What NOT To Do

There are some things that you shouldn’t do. They can make the problem worse–much worse.

Don’t punish your dog. 

Doing so will make him more stressed and more reactive. 

And suppressing his reactive behavior may lead to him being aggressive and biting someone seemingly without warning. He may feel he has no choice.

Don’t let others ruin your training program. 

Be your dog’s protector and advocate. As much as possible, don’t let dogs or people (if that’s his issue) greet your dog unless you invite them.

And don’t feel obligated to let someone say “hello” to your dog. Depending on your dog, he may never greet dogs or other people face-to-face.

We have to respect what our dogs can handle.

Move at his speed.

Final Thoughts

If you have a reactive dog, don’t despair. Help is available. 

Many reactive dogs’ behavior can be very successfully managed to the point where a casual observer wouldn’t even know he has an issue.

Believe it or not, my reactive dog Mikey got to the point that I could take him places and he was a different dog. 

He went to obedience classes and learned to ignore other dogs.

I even showed him in obedience and he was a top Lhasa. 

Of course it took a lot of patience, work, and time. But it was worth it.

Have you had a reactive dog?

If so, please tell us what you did to help him in the comment section below.

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My Dog Is Reactive! What Should I Do - Yellow Labrador Retriever growling

Top Picks For Our Dogs

    We Like: Snuggle Puppy w/ Heart Beat & Heat Pack – Perfect for new puppies. We get all of our Service Dog pups a Snuggle Puppy.
    We Like: KONG Extreme – Great toy for heavy chewers like our Labrador Retrievers.
    We Like: Wellness Soft Puppy Bites – One of our favorite treats for training our service dog puppies.
    We Like: The Farmer’s Dog – A couple months ago we started feeding Raven fresh dog food and she loves it! Get 50% off your first order of The Farmer’s Dog.

For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the blog.


CPDT-KA, Certified Professional Dog Trainer and Behavior Specialist. Winner Channel 17’s Philly Hot List #1 Dog Trainer. Debbie has been training dogs for over 24 years and has nationally ranked obedience and rally dogs, agility dogs, trick dogs, and therapy dogs.


My Dog’s Reactive! What Should I Do? was last modified: May 10th, 2021 by Debbie

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Dog Training and Behavior

My Puppy Keeps On Peeing Inside After Being Outside – WHY?!



my puppy keeps on peeing inside after being outside –

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If you just started to house train your new puppy, you are prepared for accidents to happen. But, the thing no one warns you about is that your pup will pee outside and then go inside and pee again! What’s that about, and is it normal if a puppy keeps peeing inside after being outside?

The first time my puppy did that, I was completely baffled by his behavior. We had just come back inside from a successful potty, and as soon as he was off leash he squatted and peed again in the middle of the carpet. And let me tell you, cleaning up urine stains from a white carpet is even harder than it may seem!

PRO TIP: you’ll want to use and enzymatic cleaner when cleaning up potty messes. Our favorite is Rocco & Roxie’s Stain And Odor Remover.

Needless to say, the whole experience left me extremely frustrated, and I was worried that my pup would form a habit of peeing inside the house.

As someone who is obsessed with cleanliness, I decided then and there that I couldn’t live in a home that smells of puppy pee. Armed with enzymatic cleaners and potty training guides, I was determined to nip this problem in the bud!

In this article, I’ll tell you why your puppy pees inside after going outside and what you can do to stop it from happening. Keep on reading to learn more!

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Why Does My Puppy Pee Inside After Going Outside? 

If you are in the process of potty training your puppy, certain behaviors such as peeing inside the house after being outside will leave you scratching your head. The first thing you will ask yourself is “why?” 

I know I wondered why my puppy was doing this and whether this was some sort of revenge. But if that were the case, what did I do wrong to deserve this?

Knowing what I know now, I realize how silly I was being—my pup wasn’t on some bizarre revenge quest or trying to make my life miserable. As it turned out, he had an actual medical problem, which I’ll tell you about in a bit. 

The only way you will ever resolve inappropriate urination is to figure out why your puppy keeps on peeing inside after being outside. Once you identify the reason behind this behavior, you will know what to do to stop your pup from peeing inside the house. 

Below, I’ll list the most common reasons puppies may pee inside after being outside on a regular walk.

1. Your Puppy Has A Medical Condition

Puppies, like older dogs, can unfortunately develop all sorts of diseases and infections that can cause increased urination. There is no point questioning or changing your puppy’s training routine if the answer to your problem is as simple as a prescription for antibiotics. 

A lot of different medical conditions can cause a puppy to repeatedly squat and pee inside the house after peeing outside. The most common one is a urinary tract infection, which was exactly the problem my puppy had.

If your puppy pees inside the house after being outside and is also only releasing a few drops of pee, they may have a urinary infection.

Furthermore, other medical conditions such as diabetes and kidney disease can also cause your pup to urinate frequently. Your pup may also obsessively lick its genital area, drink more water, and ask to go outside repeatedly.

Even if your puppy isn’t exhibiting any of these other behaviors, you should take them to the veterinarian. Inappropriate peeing in itself can be a sign that your pooch has a health problem. 

Your vet will most likely take a urine sample from your pup and do a urinalysis and probably a urine culture. These tests will show if your pup has bacteria and abnormal cells in its urine. If the tests confirm a urinary tract infection, your vet will prescribe antibiotics that will kill all the bacteria that are causing your pooch to frequently pee inside the house. 

However, if it turns out that your puppy doesn’t have urinary issues, your vet may want to do additional tests to rule out other conditions that can cause inappropriate urination. These tests will depend on your pup’s other potential symptoms, and the treatment will be determined based on a diagnosis. 

2. Your Puppy Isn’t Completely Potty Trained Yet

Another reason your puppy pees inside after going outside is that they aren’t entirely potty trained yet. It’s not uncommon for first-time owners to think their puppy is completely house trained just because a few days have gone by without peeing accidents. 

Naturally, you start to relax, giving your puppy more alone time inside the house, when all of a sudden you come across a puddle on the floor. And because you believe that your pup is already potty trained, you fail to consider the alternative. 

House training a puppy won’t happen overnight—it takes a lot of time, patience, and consistency to properly potty train a dog. Generally, it’s safe to say that your pooch is potty trained only if they haven’t had an accident in the past six months. Anything less and you will be lying to yourself and expecting too much from your pup way too soon. 

In the light of things, be honest: Is your puppy really potty trained or not? If the answer is no, don’t worry! Start or continue house training your puppy as you did before, and don’t expect a miracle to happen in a day, a week, or a month. 

No dog was potty trained in one day, and it’s unrealistic to expect that from your pup, no matter how smart they are. If you’re struggling with house training and don’t know how many times a day a puppy should poop and pee, take them out on a leash every hour. When they go potty, praise and reward copiously.

However, if your pup doesn’t do anything while outside, take them back in and keep them on a leash close to you, to prevent accidents. Take your pup for another potty break in 20 to 30 minutes, and if they go that time, praise, reward, and repeat. 

As time goes by, you will be able to prolong the time between potty breaks and eventually train your pooch to hold it until it’s time for a walk. 

3. Your Puppy Isn’t Emptying Its Bladder Completely While Outside

Being outside is extremely exciting for puppies, especially first thing in the morning. Your pup may be too eager to see you and spend time with you outside that it fails to completely empty its bladder in the first go.

Some puppies also get so overstimulated or distracted by all the smells and sounds while in the backyard that they forget why they came out in the first place. 

In this case, the puppy will remember that they have unfinished business only after they come back inside the house. If your puppy quickly pees while outside and then comes inside and pees again, you may be dealing with an overly excitable pup. 

For an easily excitable puppy, staying outside a bit longer and giving your pooch extra time to potty should do the trick. Staying out a few minutes longer will give you a good idea of whether or not your puppy needs to pee more. Some pups may even pee three or four times when given the opportunity.

Another thing that helps with easily distracted puppies that forget that they need to pee is training them to go in a designated potty area. This means you will have to pick a spot in your backyard that will serve only for peeing and pooping. 

Taking your pup day in and day out to the same spot may be boring, but it will teach them to focus on the task at hand. To encourage your pup to empty their bladder completely, just walk around the designated potty area in small circles that will discourage sniffing and exploring. After your puppy pees, you should praise them and offer treats.

If you have a completely fenced-in yard, you can let your puppy off-leash after they finish peeing completely. This way, you are teaching your pup that they will earn some fun time to sniff around and explore only after going potty. And by going to pee in the same area day after day, your pup will be able to focus on peeing rather than be distracted by all the fun things in the yard. 

4. You’re Praising And Rewarding Your Puppy Too Soon

Picture this: You’re outside and your pup just started peeing in their designated potty area. You’re so over the moon about your pup’s accomplishment that you start doling out treats too soon, distracting your puppy and interrupting the urine flow. Now you have a puppy with a half-full bladder and a tummy full of treats!

So once you go back inside, your pup will remember that they still need to pee and finish the job on your brand new carpet. If your puppy pees after going outside or is coming back to you excited after releasing a few drops, you might be an untimely reward-giver. 

Even if you have just realized the error of your ways, don’t despair! Just start waiting until your pup finishes peeing before offering praise and treats. And if your pup stops mid-pee and turns to you for a reward, don’t give any treats or praise until they pee again.

Dole out rewards only after you are certain that your puppy has emptied its bladder completely.

5. Your Pup Still Doesn’t Have Full Bladder Control

If your puppy will only pee inside the house, you need to remember that young pups don’t have complete control over their bladder. Most puppies aren’t able to hold it until they are about 4-6 months old, and this is the time most accidents happen. 

You should also monitor your pup’s water intake, since everything that goes into your puppy must come out at some point.

If your puppy drank too much water, they will have a much stronger urge to pee and may not be able to completely empty their bladder in one go. In that case, your pup will pee outside and then go back inside only to realize that they need to pee again. 

Keep in mind that puppies tend to drink the most in the morning, after waking up, after eating kibble, and after playing. That means that your pup is more likely to have an accident inside the house after these situations.

So, to prevent inappropriate urination, be one step ahead and take your puppy out for a walk first thing in the morning, after a meal, and after an exciting playing session. 

Don’t forget to give your pooch a chance to empty their bladder fully while out, even if that means prolonging the potty break for a few minutes. Also, always reward your pup for a job well done before heading back inside. 

FAQs About A Puppy Peeing Inside

What do you do when you catch your puppy peeing indoors?

Whenever you catch your puppy peeing inside, interrupt them right away and, using a firm voice, tell your pup “NO.” Then, pick up your pooch and take them outside to their designated potty area. Tell your puppy to go pee, or use your cue word for elimination, and then praise and reward your pup after they finish peeing in the proper place. 

Make sure that your puppy has fully emptied its bladder before you start praising them and giving treats. Don’t yell, scold, or punish your puppy for peeing inside the house! Rubbing your pup’s nose in the urine puddle won’t work either, so don’t do it, no matter how frustrated you are. 

Why does my puppy refuse to go potty outside?

Fear and anxiety are the most common reasons why a puppy refuses to urinate outside and continues to have accidents inside the house. There is a chance that your pup had a bad experience while being outside on a potty break and is now scared of reliving the same bad thing.

To get your puppy to pee outside comfortably, consider whether there is anything that may be stressing your dog out and causing it to be afraid. Are there any loud sounds such as a lawnmower or construction site nearby? Unfamiliar smells left by other dogs or leftover holiday decorations can also be the things that are making your pup nervous to pee outside. 

How long should you wait outside for your puppy to pee?

You should give your puppy 15 minutes to go potty outside. Take your pup to their designated potty area and give them the cue to pee. If you think that your pooch hasn’t emptied their bladder completely, walk around the potty area and give them a chance to eliminate again.

After you are sure that your pooch has finished peeing, praise and reward them and spend a few minutes playing in the yard. However, if your pup doesn’t pee within 15 minutes, take them back inside, put him in his crate, and wait around 15 min before taking them outside for potty again. 

How do you train a stubborn puppy to pee outside?

Although it might seem impossible, even stubborn puppies can be potty trained to pee outside. Keep in mind, it takes up to six months to properly house train a puppy, so stick to training and stay patient and consistent. You’ll also need to put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule, so they will eliminate at the same time every day. 

Don’t forget, puppies have small bladders and poor bladder control, so you will need to take them out to pee every two hours in the beginning. As your pup grows and develops bladder control, they will need fewer potty breaks. 

What is the hardest dog to potty train?

Small dog breeds, especially those from the terrier group, can be exceptionally hard to potty train. Jack Russel terriers and Yorkshire terriers are notoriously hard to house train due to their stubborn nature and the fact that they are easily distracted. 

If you have trouble potty training your small pup, set up a designated potty spot in your backyard. Make sure there isn’t anything that can distract your dog from the task at hand, and reward and praise them extensively after they pee in the right spot. 


As you can see, there are many reasons why your puppy keeps on peeing inside the house after being outside.

While your pup’s accidents may seem like some type of revenge, there are many factors—some medical, some behavioral, and some training-related—that can cause your pup to pee inside the house. The most likely reasons for your pup’s peeing accidents are:

  • Urinary tract infections
  • The puppy isn’t properly house trained
  • Your pup is easily excited and forgets to empty its bladder completely

In the end, figuring out why your puppy is peeing inside after being outside is the only way you will deal with inappropriate urination and stop cleaning pee puddles once and for all!

Is your puppy having potty training problems?

If so, tell ask us questions or leave us a comment below.

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My Puppy Keeps On Peeing Inside After Being Outside – WHY?! was last modified: May 9th, 2021 by LTHQ

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