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Dog Breeds

Why do dogs bark in the car?



why do dogs bark in the car?

Dogs are not only our emotional co-pilots, but often also our actual co-pilots who ride with us when we run errands or go on longer trips. But if they break into frenzied barking in response to everything they see on the other side of the car window, their trips are likely to be infrequent. Here’s how you can change this behavior.

Many dogs bark at things they see through the car window. Most often these are people and other dogs, but sometimes also cars, trucks, motorcycles, children on bicycles, cats, skateboarders and scooters. Some dogs carry on in a similar way when they see the same things in a different context – perhaps from home or on walks – but others only react that way when they are in the car. And dogs that react in multiple contexts often carry on particularly hard in the car.

There is something about the tight space of a vehicle that makes this behavior more likely and more intense. Perhaps the dog feels trapped and is therefore more reactive. Alternatively, they can feel more secure, and that trust makes them more reactive. While the details are not the same for all dogs, dogs certainly struggle to stay calm at the sight of various triggers on the other side of the car window.

The first step in improving this behavior is to find out the specific triggers that cause it to occur. Is it just humans or just great men? Is it just dogs, or just little white ones, or just the ones that bark? Does every motorcycle cause the dog to go crazy, or is it just those that drive past the car? Is it any vehicle or just a truck?

Once you figure that out, determine what your dog loves, what can be feasibly and safely delivered to him in the car. (If her favorite thing is grandpa or she’s breaking into a run, that’s great to know, but not helpful in the car.) Is a new toy the best option, or is something to chew or a stuffed Kong best? If she likes goodies, which goodies make her happiest: chicken, steak or a special workout treat?

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Once you’ve established what triggers her and what she loves, the next step is to pair her repeatedly so that every time she is exposed to a trigger, she gets this thing along with lots of praise. Praise is very important, especially since it can also be given when you are driving alone. If there is a trigger, feel free to speak to your dog and then provide the reward as soon as you are safe – perhaps at a traffic light or by stopping. (Try practicing this when you have two people in the car so they can learn that praise means goodies are coming soon.)

Success requires considerable attention to the many details involved in this type of pairing. The important details include presenting the trigger with low intensity so that the dog does not react, safely delivering the reward and praise as soon as possible (ideally immediately) after exposure to the trigger, and gradually increasing the intensity of the trigger over many training sessions.

First, do exercise sessions with the car parked. This makes the whole situation less intense for most dogs, presumably because the environment is stable and doesn’t keep changing as the world goes by. Get in the car with your dog, give them a treat, and speak to them in an optimistic tone every time their trigger appears. For example, if her problem is yapping at people, toss her some great treats and praise her every time a person comes in sight. (The same process applies to other triggers, but for the purposes of this discussion, I’ll keep using people as an example.)

Ideally, you can throw away the goodies and talk cheerfully before she can react. However, if that is not possible, give her the treats (and the happy conversation) even if she barks. Receiving the treats does not depend on their behavior. She doesn’t have to sit down, lie down, look at you, or otherwise be a “good girl” to receive the treats. That’s because you’re not training them to perform any behavior. Rather, they teach her to associate people’s looks with goodies and positive language that has nothing to do with their behavior. As soon as she learns to enjoy the sight of people, she stops barking at them.

In practice, one way to improve your timing in delivering treats before it starts barking is to coordinate the situation. This can be accomplished by having a friend or two walk past your parked car at some distance, or by parking your car a considerable distance from where people are likely to walk – for example, at the far end of a shopping mall parking lot. The goal is to keep your dog below the threshold (in an unresponsive state) and deliver the treats and happy conversations as soon as a person is visible. Timing is important because the more closely you are able to link the sight of the person and the delivery of the treats and praise, the easier it will be for your dog to make the connection between the two.

As your dog begins to make that connection, you may find that he looks at you expectantly whenever he sees a person, perhaps in anticipation of treats. Once she’s relaxed and happy to see people, and especially if she seems to be expecting treats, the next step in your workout is to increase the intensity of the trigger, possibly decreasing the distance or choosing a person who is more likely a person is challenging because they are taller or move faster. Keep working teaching her how to like people passing by until she can deal with people near the car.

The next step in building the association between people and positive objects is teaching them that this is true when the car is moving. The safest way to do this is with two people in the car, one to drive and one to offer their delicacies. It is best to do this for a short time – maybe just a few minutes – and drive in an area that is unlikely to offer you many triggers. If you make longer trips because you have to go elsewhere and try to combine this with dog training, then it is all too likely that you will push your dog’s limits and your efforts will be less effective.

In addition to training your dog to handle its triggers without barking, there are other strategies for dealing with car window barking that include prevention and management. For example, a useful option is to teach her to lie down in the car and then offer her a stuffed Kong or other item to keep her busy. This technique is most effective when you practice it with the car parked in your driveway and other quiet locations. It is easiest for them to develop this habit successfully when the car is stationary and nothing triggers it. Once she can get settled in a parked car, the more likely she can do so in a moving car.

Another management technique is to prevent your dog from seeing out the car windows. If she feels comfortable in a box, use one in the car and cover it with a blanket. A ThunderCap can also help. This tool obscures your dog’s view without completely blocking it, allowing them to spot shapes and navigate as needed. (Teach her to wear it comfortably before using it in the car.) ThunderCaps are soothing to many dogs in a variety of situations, including barking while riding.

As with any behavior change, teaching dogs not to bark out of the car window is a gradual process. This takes many steps and a lot of practice and patience. Reminding yourself that dogs are happier when they can handle the sight of a person (or other trigger) out of the car without responding will help you stay motivated. Your ability to stay calm also means you will likely be driving in the car more often – a win / win no matter how you look at it.

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Dog Breeds

How to give a name to a dog



how to give a name to a dog

Dog name selection can be a source of conflict for couples. It doesn’t matter if you like Jack and your partner wants to go with Jake, or if one of you likes Wren and the other likes Robin. Similarities can even exist if there is a choice between bogey and divot or perhaps inverse and vector. But what if one is killer or Gamora and the other is betting on Baby or Zoe? These differences can be more difficult to resolve.

Enter Dogname, a new app that helps people choose (with minimal scramble) the perfect name for their dog. Each of the app’s 30,000 names is listed with their meanings and origins, and users go through as many entries as they want, swiping right if they like the name and left if they don’t. The names that both people like are saved as matches, making it easy to choose a mutually acceptable nickname.

I’ve seen the results of many, what to call the dog, fights, and they’re not always beautiful. A couple could not agree on the type of dog or the name of the dog when they got it. They solved their fight (and it turned out to be quite a fight!) By tossing a coin; the winner chose the dog’s name and the other person chose the dog. As a result, they ended up with a tiny fluffy dog ​​named Thor – a dog-name mismatch that made people laugh when they met him.

In a similar but happier story, another couple decided that one person chose the dog and the other the name, but they were both happy with the result. They welcomed a 170 pound English mastiff into their family and named it chiclet. They loved it when people who might have been suspicious of their huge dog felt a lot more comfortable with her because of her non-threatening name.

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In 1997 two astronomy fans were very excited about the appearance of the Hale Bopp comet. Unsurprisingly, they wanted to name the puppy they wanted to have in honor of the record-breaking fireball. But from that common ground they got into a big argument over whether to call her Halley or Comet. (Hale did not consider Hale, Bopp, or Hale-Bopp as a suitable option.)

After weeks of bickering, unable to resolve their disagreements, they adopted two female littermates, named one Halley and the other Comet. The dogs fought each other until they caused serious injuries. The dispute over the name of the couple led to more conflicts in the household than was thought possible.

Sometimes compromises lead to a good dog name. One person in a pair wanted to go with Hershey or Cocoa for their chocolate lab pup, but the other worried that those names were too common or too popular with that breed. But they both loved cooking and also loved the idea of ​​a food name, so they named their pup Rosemary.

Another couple argues over the names Max and Xavier. The first person liked the meaning of Max (“greatest”), but the other wanted a name that began with the letter X, badly. They eventually agreed to name their dog Xander, a greeting to Alexander the Great who pleased both of them.

I love a happy ending that is based on compromise! Do you have a story about how your family came up with the name for your dog after some friction during the decision-making process?

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Dog Breeds

Help for your dog’s dry skin



help for your dog's dry skin

It is a rare person who can lie in bed and listen to a dog scratching, scratching, scratching and not thinking at night or maybe even saying, “Will you please stop!” Get rid of your dog’s dry skin and flakes from the inside out by adding one of two staple foods – olive oil or coconut oil – to their meals. It can even help both of you sleep better. (Fish oil is another excellent option.)

Dogs have many reasons to scratch themselves, but if your dog does it more often than occasionally – all dogs scratch every now and then – you should call your veterinarian first, who can help you figure out what’s causing the itch. There are at least three possibilities, which sometimes overlap: environmental influences (low humidity, dry room heat in winter), allergies (food, pollen) or parasites (fleas, ticks or, more rarely, mites). An example of a two-tier reason: dogs with flea allergies are extremely sensitive to the presence of a few small pests on their skin.

It may take some time to figure out what is causing the scratching, but two things that can provide some relief are likely in your kitchen right now: olive oil and coconut oil. When it comes to oils that help moisturize a dog’s dry, flaky skin, check out one of these oils and consider changing them regularly to give your dog the benefits of each.

They’re both high in the omega-3 and omega-6 essential fatty acids (EFAs) that dogs need to help maintain oil production and skin hydration (and much more). The body needs EFAs to function but cannot make them; they must be obtained from food.

Fortunately, dogs tend to love the taste of oil, so adding it to their meals is an easy way to get it into their system. And be patient; It may take some time for the oil regimen to take effect.

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Once the container is opened, oils exposed to heat and light can go rancid, so follow the recommended storage guidelines for the product. If your kitchen is routinely warmer than about 70 degrees, consider cooling the oil.

Adding an oil to your dog’s meal isn’t a panacea or magic solution, but it can help improve your dog’s overall health – not to mention glossier fur and fewer nightly scratching sessions.

Olive oil for dogs

Extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) is the best choice for dogs. Cold-pressed, unrefined and made from the first olive pressing, it is less acidic than more processed forms of olive oil and therefore gentler on the dog’s digestive system. It also has higher levels of vitamins and antioxidants. Dogs who may have difficulty digesting omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids usually get along well with olive oil. Aside from its ability to repair dry, flaky skin and make your dog’s coat shine, olive oil can also stimulate their appetite and help with constipation.

Olive oil can go rancid quickly, which is why it is sold in dark bottles. Keep it in a cool, dark place away from heat sources (not on a sunny counter or near the stove).

Daily dose guidelines *

Small dogs, 1/2 teaspoon; medium dogs, 1 teaspoon; big dogs, 2 teaspoons; extra large dogs, 1 tablespoon

Coconut oil for dogs

You probably have coconut oil in your pantry too. It’s high in saturated fat, and its medium-chain triglycerides and medium-chain fatty acids, which are quickly absorbed, are said to help with a number of medical conditions.

Based on research done primarily on humans and rodents, it is believed that consuming coconut oil eliminates various types of skin problems, including itchy or dry skin; Minimize odors; reduce allergic reactions; and treatment of yeast and fungal infections.

Like olive oil, the best coconut oils for dogs are organic, virgin, and cold-pressed. This oil comes in a variety of flavors – strong, buttery, mild, nutty – and you may need to experiment to see which your dog prefers with their food. (Some dogs are put off by a strong coconut flavor.)

Coconut oil can be added to the food or – if the area is particularly dry or itchy – massaged directly into the dog’s skin. When applied topically, be very conservative in the amount you use and supervise your dog afterwards until the oil is absorbed. Your dog will likely try to lick it off, and too much coconut oil at once can have consequences (see info box). Plus, you know the potential for stained floors and bedding.

Daily dose guidelines * (gradually introduce)

Note: If your dog is prone to pancreatitis, check with your veterinarian before adding him to his food.

Small dogs, 1/4 teaspoon; medium / large dogs, 1/2 to 2 teaspoons; extra large dogs, 1 tablespoon.

Fish oil for dogs

While not your ordinary pantry item, fish oil is a must-have nutritional supplement that is believed to aid dog heart health, reduce itching and flaking, and relieve allergies and joint pain. When choosing a fish oil for your dog, check with the manufacturer for their certificate of analysis. A mix of salmon, herring, sardines, and other small fish provides the most omega-3 fatty acids and the longest shelf life.

Note the following: Fish oil can increase blood clotting time. So if your dog needs surgery, tell your veterinarian about this supplement; the vet may ask you to pause for a few days before and after the procedure.

Finally, one more good reason to speak to your vet before giving your dog any supplements: processing fish oil can cause the dog’s system to use up its supply of vitamin E. This can lead to a deficiency that brings its own problems. Ask your veterinarian if this is a concern for your dog.

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Dog Breeds

How to Socialize Your Puppy



how to socialize your puppy

I’m not claiming to be clairvoyant, but I do have a feeling that Puppy Socialization: What It Is and How to Do It by Marge Rogers, CPDT-KA, CBCC-KA, CCUI, and Eileen Anderson, MM, MS, is about reading and recommended by many dog ​​professionals and dog lovers eager to get the word out.

The writers had me on “Remember, there is a human tendency to want to show the world your pups, but it’s not the same thing as showing your pup the world! Avoid the temptation to let your pup become a magnet for human attention. The last thing you want to do is let him overwhelm and frighten. “

The book – an e-book available on multiple platforms – provides equally useful information and ideas throughout, and both novice and professional puppy breeders will benefit from its guidance and advice. It teaches people everything they need to know about puppy socialization in order for them to develop into the best possible versions of their canine selves. And with 120 photos and video links, not only is this book practical and helpful, it’s also fun to read.

Socialization as a concept is often misunderstood, and this confusion prevents our pups from starting off properly. After reading this book, people will understand what socialization is (and what isn’t) and learn to properly socialize their puppy.

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Rogers and Anderson do their readers a great service by showing them how to socialize dogs through photos and videos. Learning the right way to get puppy on the right paw is much easier by seeing it and reading about it. The videos, most of which are from actual training sessions with puppies and their owners, are practical and useful in ways new puppy owners will want.

The reason socialization is so important is easier to understand when you consider what happens to puppies who are not socialized. Anderson writes, “I had my own wild pup who was born in the forest and not exposed to humans in any way. I got in at the very end of their sensitive phase of socialization, but no one else. Since then we’ve been playing catch-up. … Your deeply ingrained reaction to people other than me is complete and persistent fear. “

Anderson is the first to recognize that her dog is an extreme version of what can happen when a dog is not socialized. It is likely that a combination of genetics along with limited early experience has made life especially difficult for this particular dog. But it’s hard to avoid the thought that your dog’s life might have ended badly in someone else’s hands … and quickly.

Puppy socialization includes a clear explanation of the magical time – known as the sensitive time for socialization – when puppies are prepared to learn new things. This only lasts for a short time in the first few months of life, so it is important to maximize this opportunity. It will save you and your puppy from trouble or even heartache later.

This new treasure of a book also covers dog body language so readers can learn to tell whether their pup is relaxed or tense, happy or nervous, anxious or comfortable. This knowledge is essential to socializing a puppy, but few books cover it in the puppy context.

In fact, this chapter on dog body language is relevant to all owners, regardless of their dog’s age. For example, most people do not know that a dog that is yawning can show symptoms of anxiety and anxiety. Or that when a dog shows its stomach, it doesn’t always ask for a stomach rub. Understanding dog body language improves the bond between dogs and the people they love.

When asked why they contained so much information about reading dog visual cues, Anderson replied, “For us, this is the missing part because so many people don’t know how to read the mean or very subtle cues of how to do it your dog feels. If you can’t tell [that] Your puppy is scared you’re in trouble. You risk frightening him instead of teaching him that the world is a wonderful and fun place for puppies. “

The authors also counter all of the bad puppy socialization advice with lots of fact-based information. Myth Destruction is a great service, and the writers do it well by helping readers (and their dogs) avoid the consequences of harmful myths and falsehoods. In fact, according to Rogers, this bad advice was the inspiration to write this book in the first place.

“We all have different memories of who said the word ‘book’ first, but we wrote it because our hearts ached when we saw people follow traditional advice and it made their pups worse.” An example for the traditional advice Rogers is referring to is to suggest taking your pup anywhere and exposing him to anything. It is one of the myths about socialization that is counterproductive to its proper execution.

This book is a truly modern book with the most up-to-date information on the subject and offers strategies for safely socializing puppies during the Covid-19 pandemic as well as during normal times. Pandemic puppies have spent a lot of time with their families, but public health protocols have limited their socialization options to varying degrees.

Many behavioral problems are avoided if people follow the socialization advice in this book. Many of the dogs that I observe in my private practice as a canine behavior therapist and dog trainer could have been spared the challenges they face in life if they had been properly socialized. I hope that this book will be widely read and that its advice will be followed. It’s the perfect resource for anyone involved in raising well-adjusted, happy puppies, and it’s good news to have it published.

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